While Dalmatia’s traditional boats allowed for the movement of goods and people on the water, on the other side of the Dinaric Alps four-legged transport was used. Donkeys were used for the heavy work, such as lifting the grapes, while horses did the rest.

An event called the Alka is held in Sinj in August each year. This horsemanship challenge commemorates a victory over the Turks in 1715, but, unfortunately though interesting, it has become closely tied to Croatian nationalism.

Our friend Ivo has 50 horses not far from Split. He offers one day tours of the local hills, or a 7-day camping horseback expedition around the Plitvice Lakes National Park. Those interested should contact us at Lifejacket Adventures.

The Croatian National Parks that we have visited so far we have really enjoyed. One trip that always goes well is walking around the Plitvice Lakes, in the Lika region. The Lakes are protected on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

As the River Korana cuts its way down through the limestone of the surrounding hills its water gains a high concentration of calcium carbonate. When the water gets caught in amongst the fallen birch, ash or pine trees of the lush forest the limestone is decanted and builds up dams which eventually produce lakes and waterfalls. At the moment there are 16 large lakes.

Beauty-wise, there doesn’t seem to be a bad time to visit the Lakes. In winter, snow blankets everthing; in spring, the wild-flowers bloom; in summer, you can have a quick swim in Kozjak Lake, the main lake; in autumn, the forest changes quickly from greens to browns and reds. The only problems are the summer crowds and the entrance price which keeps going up – it was 110 kuna in 2007. The best way to escape the crowds is to use the upper trails. They make their way through hillside forests – and allow views down to the Lakes.

The Lakes are full of char, trout, minnows and carp. They gather at the edges, under the shade of the surrounding trees.

We always stay in the small village of Korana, a collection of about a dozen old traditional houses on the river just outside of the Park. The Luketić brothers have 2 guest-houses – with a large terrace on the river for evening meals. Its possible to swim directly in front of the village, except in the height of summer when the river can disappear underground.

It is a 3 hour drive from Split to Plitvice. Usually we drive to the town of Rastoke, known as ‘Little Plitvice’, on the way, for a top baked trout meal at Konoba Petro.